The best taxi in Havana

Havana is a place of beautiful contradictions. Its government claims world-class health care and 100-percent literacy. However, many of the buildings are in hazardous condition, there's widespread poverty and somehow the automotive population has survived for decades beyond its design life.

Havana is slowly but surely making changes. Private ownership of real estate is now permitted, and people are being given the opportunity to work for themselves. Taxi ownership is one such line of work. As a result, there has been a major increase in the number of old cars used for official taxi duty.

During a recent visit, there appeared to be more restored convertibles, all American I might add, than there last time we made it to Cuba. Modern taxis were also common, mostly Chinese-built Geeleys. For most visitors, the allure of the old cars is irresistible; a couple of hours touring in a 1950 Chevy proved to be delightful. Listening to the cars passing by, it's clear that a great many have been fitted with diesels. Imaginative body mods aren't out of the norm, such as a Studebaker Champion pickup truck while British Fords and Austins are also a common sight.

At the Nacional Hotel, the large parking lot was full of restored 1950s taxis, one of which stood out.

What was a Chaika doing there? The GAZ 14 Chaika limousine was never sold to the public, being built exclusively for use by the most senior politburo members. Some were given to USSR allies; others fell into the hands of Fidel Castro and his officials.

The current owner stated that a few of them had been decommissioned--armor plating was removed and the car fitted with a Mercedes diesel powerplant. The car was in very good shape with a fake wood and velour interior still intact as well as seemingly endless legroom for its prestigious passengers and jump seats for the lesser lights.

Although claimed to be Castro's personal car, it is more likely that it was used in rotation. But, Castro may well have travelled in it. It still does regular airport taxi and tour work, and for $25 to $60 you too can sit back and relax in veloured splendor.

By Ronan McGrath