* ITEM FEATURES:
1. Fits Vehicles of the Following Years and Make :
Year
|
Make
|
Model
|
Trim
|
Engine
|
2000
|
Honda
|
Civic
|
All
|
All
|
1999
|
Honda
|
Civic
|
All
|
All
|
1998
|
Honda
|
Civic
|
All
|
All
|
1997
|
Honda
|
Civic
|
All
|
All
|
1996
|
Honda
|
Civic
|
All
|
All
|
2. Guaranteed Exact Fit for easy installation
3. 100%
BRAND NEW and tested to meet or exceed OEM specifications
4. Premium
ISO/TS 16949 quality - guaranteed highest quality available
5. Engineered for superior durability,
backed by industry leading warranty
6. These
are brand new, not used or junkyard parts.
7. Each
complete assembly is built to meet or exceed exact OEM specifications.
8. High
corrosion resistance and long service life. Steel rod is mirco-polished with
double chrome plate.
9. Newer
Valving technology operates in stages based on the velocity of the car.
10. Use
Teflon bonded piston seal to keep friction down and temperature cooler so
that valving stays firmer.
Notes : These are guaranteed exact fit and don't
require the use of a dangerous spring compressor to swap
springs, so they are very easy to install!
The struts/shocks are nitrogen gas charged and tuned for
each specific vehicle application. They will greatly
improve the ride, handling, and safety of your vehicle!
* HOW TO INSTALL :
Step 1: Before you lift the vehicle, loosen
lug nuts one full turn.
Step 2: Jack up vehicle and use jack stands for
safety & remove the tire from the rotor.
Step 3: (Wheel alignment is necessary after strut
replacement.) Marking the position of all the bolts will
help keep the alignment close to original and save time
aligning. Use a colored pencil to mark the old strut on
the bolt.
Step 4: Use penetrating oil (such as WD40) to coat
any rusted fasteners, let soak for approximately 1 hour.
Step 5: (Optional) While waiting for oil to soak,
take this time to inspect all other components that may
need replacement (brake pads, rotors, brake hoses, ball
joints, CV boots, tie rod ends, bushings, sway bars,
etc).
Step 6: Remove any brake line or wire attachments
from the strut body. Do not disconnect brake lines (if
possible)! Opening brake lines will require bleeding of
the brake system.
Use extreme caution when removing brake lines from your
struts, as any damage to your brake line can result in
expensive and time consuming repairs.
Step 7: Remove sway bar attached to the strut
assembly or control arm.
Step 8: Remove the tie rod (only if it attached
to the body of the strut, if not leave it attached to
the steering knuckle).
Step 9: Remove the strut to knuckle bolts at the
bottom of the strut. On some vehicles, the brake caliper
and rotor may need to be removed to gain access.
Step 10: Remove the upper mounting plate bolts
located in the engine or trunk compartment. Do not
remove the center retaining nut! It is not safe to
unload the spring from the assembly in this position.
Step 11: Carefully remove the old strut assembly
from the vehicle. Be very cautious not to let the strut
"drop" down on your brake line, rotor or drum.
Step 12: Install the new Complete Strut Assembly
in the reverse order as above (steps 11-6). Using an
anti-seize compound on all fasteners is suggested.
Step 13: Carefully double check your work and
make sure everything is tightened to manufacturers
torque specifications.
Step 14: Replace the tire the rotor and tighten
to manufacturers torque specifications.
Step 15: Slowly lower the vehicle down after
removing the jack stands. Pay very close attention to
any odd sounds when the vehicle is lowered onto the new
Complete Strut Assemblies.
Step 16: It is very important that you
immediately "road test" your vehicle right away to
ensure that installation was done properly. Listen and
feel for common signs of incorrect installation while
driving slowly over speed bumps, rough road or potholes.